Post-Medieval/ Early Modern

 

 

Addink-Samplonius, M; Groenman-van Waateringe, W. and Wijngaarden-Bakker, L.H. van (1974) 'Enkele Ledervondsten uit een middeleeuwse put bij Oud Naarden', Westerheem 23, 258-264

 

Altena, H.H. van Regteren (1965) 'Opgravingen aan het Damrakte Amsterdam',

Jaarverslagen Koninklijk Oudheidkundig Genootschap  1963-1965, 51-84

 

Altena, H.H. van Regteren (ed) (1966) Stadskernonderzoek in Amsterdam, (Sites in Amsterdam) Groningen

 

Altena, H.H. van Regteren (ed) (1972) Vondsten onder de St. Olofskapel, Amsterdam

 

Andersen, V.L. (2007) Sko fra 1700-talslossepladsen på Esplanaden, Koebenhavn. En vurdering af nyere tids arkaeologi, [Shoes from the 1700-century dump at the Esplanade, Copenhagen –an assessment of contemporary archaeology], Magisterkonference, Afdeling for Forhistorisk Arkaeologi, Saxo Instituttet, University of Copenhagen [Master’s thesis]

 

Andersen, V.L. et al. (2009)Skomagere i Sudergade”, Helsingør Kommunes Museer Årbog 2009

 

Andersen, V.L.(2009) “Skoen i skraldet” [Shoes from the rubbish dump], Dragtjournalen – Tidsskrift udgivet af Den Danske Dragt- og Tekstilpulje, Nr. 5 Årgang.3, 11-19

 

Andersen, V.L. (2009) “På fod med nyere tids arkæologi – sko som kilde” [Shoes as a source in modern archaeology] in: Lyngstrøm, H. (ed), Glimt fra en anden verden, Specialer ved Forhistorisk Arkæologi, 2006, 2007 and 2008. Saxo-instituttet, Københavns Universitet

 

Andersen, V.L, (2009) “Fodens fjende” [Shoes: enemies of the foot], Skalk, June 2009, 9-12

 

Anderson, R.M. (1969) 'The Chopine and Related Shoes', Cuadernos de la Alhambra 5, 17-41

 

Anstee, J. (1956) 'Footwear'  in 'Mounds on Seasalter Level, near Whitstable',

Archaeologia Cantiana 70, 55-57

 

Armstrong, P. (1977) 'Excavations in Sewer Lane, Hull 1974', Hull Old Town Report Series 1, East Riding Archæologist 3

 

Arnold, J. (1971) 'A study of three jerkins', Costume 5, 36-45

 

Arnold, J. (1973) A Handbook of Costume London, Macmillan

 

Arnold, J. (1988) Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe Unlocked, Maney, Leeds, 210-216, 46-47, 105-106, 110, 206, 326

 

Ashelford, J. (1983) A Visual History of Costume: The 16th Century  London, Batsford

 

Baker, O. (1921) Black Jacks and Leather Bottells, London

 

Beaby, M. and Richardson, T. (1997) 'Hardened leather armour', Royal Armouries Yearbook 2, Leeds, 64-72

 

Bell, A.  Wainfleet (-)  Computer print-out of catalogue of 1460's shoe material. (In Northampton Museum Boot and Shoe Department library)

 

Blouet, E. and Beaumont, I. (2004) ‘The Conservation of a 16th Century War Saddle’, in L.Gilmour (ed) In the Saddle. An exploration of the saddle through history, London, 43-52

 

Broberg, B. and Hasselmo, M. (1981) 'Keramik, Kammar och skor fran medeltida stader', Riksantikvarieambetet och Statens Historiska Museer. Medeltidsstaden 30 (Material from 1970s urban excavations in Sweden: mostly 13thC but extends to c. 1600)

 

Brooke, I. (1974) Footwear, A Short History of European and American Shoes. London

 

Catalogue of the Collection of London Antiquities in the Guildhall Museum 1903

'The Medieval and Later Periods'

 

Ceynowa, B. and Trawicka, E. (eds.) (2016) "Każdy krok pozostawia ślad". Obuwie historyczne ze zbiorów Muzeum Archeologicznego w Gdańsku, Katalog ["Every step leaves a trace". Historic footwear from the Collection of the Archaeological Museum in Gdańsk, Exhibition catalogue], Gdańsk, Archaeological Museum. Available to read online at: http://archeologia.academia.edu/BeataCeynowa

 

Clarkson, L. A. (1960) 'The Organisation of the English Leather Industry in the late 16th and 17th Centuries', Economic History Review 13, 245-256

 

Clarkson, L. A. (1965) 'English Economic Policy in the 16th and 17th Centuries:  the case of the leather industry', Institute of Historical Research Bulletin 38, 149-162

 

Clarkson, L. A. (1966) 'The Leather Crafts in Tudor and Stuart England', Agricultural History Review 14, part 1, 25-39

 

Cunnington, P. and Lucas, C. (1967) Occupational Costume in England, from the 11th Century to 1914, London

 

Dahlback, G. (1983) Helgeandsholmen: 1000 ar i Stockholms Strom, Skor och andra laderforemal, 217-239

 

Dahlberg A, Ricci S, Swann J et al. (2007) Exhibition catalogue: Skor ger mer - makt flärd magi (Shoes have it all, power, vanity, magic), Stockholm, Livrustkammaren - introduction, essays and illustrated catalogue in Swedish and English, documenting an important exhibition of shoes ranging from the second half of the 16th century to the present day

 

Dekker, Shoemaker's Holiday 1599, Northampton Museums Boot and Shoe Publication

 

Dobson, C. (2003) ‘As tough as old boots? A study of hardened leather armour, part 1: techniques of manufacture’, Art and Arms, Florence, City of the Medici, International Arms and Armour Conference Proceedings May 30th – June 1st 2003, 55-77

 

Doughty, P.S. (ed) (1973) Transactions of the Museum Assistants' Group 12 (Proceedings of a seminar 'Excavated shoes to 1600' held at the Institute of Archaeology, London, 1973)

 

Draper, A. (1997) 'The investigation and conservation of a 17th century saddle', Royal Armouries Yearbook 2, Leeds, 161-168

 

Dunbar, J. G. (1962-3) 'Excavations at Stirling Castle, Peebleshire and James's Fort Stirling', Proceedings of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland 96, 244-5. (Mid 16thC.)

 

Forsyth, H. (2004) ‘The Saddle from Unicorn Passage, Southwark’ in L.Gilmour (ed) In the Saddle. An exploration of the saddle through history, London, 53-58

 

Gaimster, D; Boland, P; Linnane, S. and Cartwright, C. (1996) 'The archaeology of private life: the Dudley Castle condoms', Post-Medieval Archaeology 30, 129-142

 

Garsault de, M. (1767) Art Du Cordonnier, Académie Royale des Sciences, Paris

 

Glasson, M. (1997) The Origins and Early History of the Walsall Leather Trades, Walsall

 

Gilmour, L. (2004) ‘Saddles of the Stuart Period’ in L.Gilmour (ed) In the Saddle. An exploration of the saddle through history, London, 67-82

 

Goubitz, O. (1984a) 'De leervondsten.' Appendix to thesis of L.  Hacquebord, Smeerenburg. Het verblijf van Nederlandse walvisvaarders op de westkust van Spitsbergen in de zeventiende eeuw. Groningen, 214-221.

 

Goubitz, O. (1984b) 'Leder' in Vandenberghe,  S. (ed) Het hof van Waterviiet in de Oude Burg te Brugge, Brugge, 87-9

 

Goubitz, O. (1985a) 'Een 17e-eeuwse kinderschoen.'  Overijsselse Historische Bijdragen 100, 224-225.

 

Goubitz, O. (1985b) 'Modeschoenen uit een Waddenwrak.' Westerheem 34, 223-228.

 

Goubitz, O. (1987a) 'De muil uit de beerput; een beschrijving en een overdenking.' Westerheem 36, 9-13.

 

Goubitz, O. (1987b) 'Leder', Schatten uit de Schelde, Gemeente Museum Bergen op

Zoom, 35-7

 

Goubitz, O. (1988) 'Op lage schoenen in de kou.' In; L. Hacquebord, & W. Vroom (eds) Walvisvaart in de Gouden Eeuw. Opgravingen op Spitsbergen. (cat. exhibition Rijksmuseum Amsterdam), 91-96.

 

Goubitz, O. (1993) 'Leder.' In, J.J. Lenting; H. van Gangelen and H. van Westing (eds), Schans op de Grens. Bourtanger bodemvondsten 1580-1850., Sellingen 1993, 525-536.

 

Goubitz, O. (1994a) 'Wambuis' (leather jerkin), in R.M. van Heeringen Archeologische kroniek van Zeeland over 1992, 207-8.

 

Goubitz, O. (1994b) 'De Ledervondsten.' In, P.H. Broekhuizen et al (eds), Oudheden onder De Hunze. Archeologisch en historisch onderzoek naar een steenhuis en een boerderij onder een Groninger nieuwbouwwijk. Stichting Monument en Materiaal, Groningen, 189-198. 

 

Goubitz, O. (1995c) 'Les vestiges de cuir au château de Hosdent', Vie Archéologique, Bulletin de la Fédération des Archéologiques de Wallonie  41, 72-83.

 

Goubitz, O. (1995d) 'Lederen flessen. Thanks to Mr Baker.....' Westerheem  44, 195-200.

 

Goubitz, O. (1996) 'Modderschoenen, Prutlappen en Drekhout, wonderbare schatten van organische aard uit de bodem', Fibula 73/4, 25-28

 

Goubitz, O. (1998) 'Schoeisel' in Braat, J. et al (eds) Behouden uit het Behouden Huys, Catalogus van de Voorwerpen van de barentsexpeditie (1596), gevonden op Nova Zembla. De Rijksmuseumcollectie, aangevuld met Russische en Noorse vondsten. De bataafse Leeuw, Amsterdam, 258-288

 

Goubitz, O., Groenman-van Waateringe, W. and Driel-Murray, C. van (2001) Stepping Through Time: Archaeological Footwear from Prehistoric Times until 1800,  Stichting Promotie Archeologie, Zwolle

 

Goubitz, O., (2007) Purses in Pieces. Archaeological finds of late medieval and 16th century leather purses, pouches, bags and cases in the Netherlands (Stitchting Promotie Archeologie, Zwolle (Based mainly on material from the excavations in Dordrecht, but also includes examples from all over the Netherlands. Richly illustrated with OG’s matchless constructional drawings this is an essential work of reference, not only for archaeologists but also costume historians and re-enactment groups)

 

Grube, E.J. (2007) ‘Venetian lacquer and bookbindings of the 16th century’ in Venice and the Islamic World 828-1797 (exhibition catalogue Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York) Yale University Press, Newhaven, 230-243. (Short-lived phase of lacquered leatherwork imitating oriental forms, including pseudo-Turkish shields produced in Venice)

 

Friendship-Taylor, D. (1994a) 'Leather' in Papworth, M. 'Lodge Farm, Kingston Lacy Estate, Dorset', Journal of the British Archaeological Association 147, 99, 101-2. Mid/late 17th C.

 

Friendship-Taylor, D. (1994b) 'The leather shoe' in 'Framlingham FLM 018', Suffolk Archaeological Service Excavation Report, fig. 7 and Appendix V.  Late 16th century shoe frag.

 

Lyne, M. (1997) Lewes Priory: Excavations by Richard Lewis, 1969-82, Lewes. Pre- and post-Reformation footwear, up to the 17th century, not published but report available in site archive.

 

Montembault, V. Nailer, A. and Stephenson, R. (1990) 'Post-medieval: a leather saddle and tin-glazed pottery from Southwark and Lambeth' in ' Recent finds work carried out by the Museum of London, Department of Greater London Archaeology', London Archaeologist 6 and Museum of London DGLA Offprint 10, 149-151. Large assemblage of leather includes late 16th/early 17th C. oxhide saddle, footwear and pair of pistol pipes.

 

Mould, Q. (2004) ‘The leather’ in Rodwell, K. and Bell, R. Acton Court: The Evolution of an Early Tudor Courtier’s House, English Heritage, 403-405

 

Mould, Q. (2005) ‘Footwear, discussion’ in Gardiner, J. with Allen, M. J. (eds.) Before the Mast; Life and Death Aboard the Mary Rose, The Archaeology of the Mary Rose vol. 4, Portsmouth, 78-94

 

Mould, Q. (2006) ‘The Medieval and Post-Medieval Leather’ in Butler, J. Reclaiming the Marsh: Archaeological Excavations at Moor House, City of London, Pre-Construct Archaeology Monograph 6,121-126

 

Mould, Q. (2007) ‘The leather’. In Brady, K., Smith, A. and Laws, G. ‘Excavations at Abingdon West Central Redevelopment: Iron Age, Roman, Medieval, and Post-medieval Activity in Abingdon’, Oxoniensia 72, 107-202

 

Mould, Q. (2008) ‘Leather finds’ in Mann, J. (ed.) Finds from the Well at St Paul-in-the-Bail, Lincoln, Oxford, Lincoln Archaeological Studies 9, pp.___?

 

Mould, Q. (2009) ‘Leather Shoes and Clothing’ in Popescu, E. S. Norwich Castle: Excavations and Historical Survey, 1987-98, Part II: c.1345 to Modern, East Anglian Archaeology series 132, pp.827-833 [17th century footwear]

 

Mould, Q. and Cameron, E. (2005) ‘Leather buckets’ in Gardiner, J. with Allen, M. J. (eds.) Before the Mast; Life and Death Aboard the Mary Rose, The Archaeology of the Mary Rose vol. 4, Portsmouth, 359-367

 

Nicolle, D. (2011) Late Mamluk Military Equipment, Travaux et Études de la Mission Archéologique Syro-Francaise. Citadelle de Damas, vol. III, IFPO Damascus

 

Oliver, K.M. (1995a) Hold Fast, Sit Sure, The history of the Worshipful Company of Saddlers of the City of London 1160-1960

 

Oliver, K.M. (1995b) Treasures and Plate, The collection of the Saddlers Company

 

Payton, R. (2004) ‘Conservation of the Saddle from Unicorn Passage, Southwark’, in L.Gilmour (ed) In the Saddle. An exploration of the saddle through history, London, 59-65

 

Pereira, F. (2009) Ofícios do couro na Lisboa medieval [Leather trades in medieval Lisbon] Lisbon, Editora Prefácio

 

Pereira, F. (2009) Um document da Inquisição de Lisboa, de 1610 [deals with the trial of Lourenço da Costa, a Lisbon gilt leather maker] Lisbon, Editora Prefácio

 

Pereira, F. (2012) “Gilt leather/guadameci in Coimbra – comments on documents of the 12th and 16th centuries”, Boletim do Arquivo da Universidade de Coimbra, XXV, 169-180. This article can be read online or downloaded as a pdf file:

 

http://iuc-revistas.com/ojs/index.php/boletimauc/article/viewFile/490/367

 

Redknap, M. (1984) The Cattewater Wreck, The investigation of an armed vessel of the early sixteenth century. National Maritime Museum, Greenwich. British Archaeological Reports 131, pp. 71-75. Catalogue of 43 leather objects including 34 fragments of shoes, some straps, a knife sheath and early Tudor purse.

 

Riello, G. (2006) A Foot in the Past: Consumers, Producers and Footwear in the Long Eighteenth Century, Oxford University Press [footwear in France and England from late 17th to mid 19th century]

 

Saguto, D. A. (2009) M. de Garsault’s 1767 Art of the Shoemaker: an annotated translation, Williamsburg, Virginia, Colonial Williamsburg Foundation [Ideal for understanding c1767 constructions and patterns of men’s and women’s boots and shoes and the tools with which they were made]

 

Schrickx, C. and van der Walle-van der Woude, T. (2007) Hoogtepunten uit Hoornse Bodem, Hoorn, Unipers  [Overview of finds from the excavations in Hoorn, a wealthy town in North Holland, including short studies on 15-16th century  footwear (p 44-49), an almost complete, decorated leather jerkin dating to the second half of the 16th century (p 80-85) and a felt hat (p 100-113)]

 

Sedler, I; Schreier, W and Kock, G (2002) ‘Schuhteknik in Barock und Rokoko. Zur historischen Schuhsammlung in Museum Weissenfels’, Waffen- und Kostümkunde 44, Heft 2, 121-126

 

Semple, J. (2006) ‘The Tanners of Wrotham Manor 1400-1600’, Archaeologia Cantiana 126, 1-25

 

Shaw, M. (1996) ‘The excavation of a late 15th to 17th century tanning complex at The Green, Northampton’, Post-Medieval Archaeology 30, 63-127

 

Shaw, M. (1984), ‘Northampton: excavating a 16th century tannery’, Current Archaeology 91, 241-44

 

Shaw, M. ‘Early post-medieval tanning in Northampton, England’, Archaeology (Archaeological Institute of America) 40, 43-47

 

Smith, L. (2004) ‘The History and Development of the Side Saddle’ in L.Gilmour (ed) In the Saddle. An exploration of the saddle through history, London, 83-96

 

Stockham, P. (ed) (1976a) Early American Crafts and Trades. facsimile reprint of The Book of Trades 1 (1806). Copperplate engravings of crafts with accompanying text: includes currier

 

Stockham, P. (ed) (1976b) Old Time Crafts and Trades. facsimile reprint of The Book of Trades 2 (1806): includes shoemaker and trunkmaker

 

Stockham, P. (ed) (1992) Early Nineteenth Century Crafts and Trades. facsimile reprint of The Book of Trades 3 (1806): includes bookbinder and saddler

 

Suk Joo-sun Memorial Museum (2004), Shoes in the Joseon Dynasty, Dankook University, Korea. Material from 15th - 20th centuries. In Korean, with introduction, contents and captions in English.

 

Swann, J. M. (2002) ‘Leather footwear’ in I. Roberts Pontefract Castle Archaeological Excavations 1982-6, Yorkshire Archaeology 8 (West Yorkshire Archaeological Services), 314-20

 

Swann, J. M. (2005) ‘The Shoe’ (concealed, from Balnabodach) in K. Branigan From Clan to Clearance, History and Archaeology on the Isle of Barra c.850-1850, Oxford 84-85

 

Swann, J. M. (2005) ‘Crackows, Poulaines and Polony Fashion’ in B.

Biedronska-Slotowa (ed.) Crossroads of Costume and Textiles in Poland (papers from ICOM Conference 2003) National Museum in Cracow, 35-42

 

Swann, J. M. (2005) ‘Brekelenkam's Shoemaker Paintings and Men's Mid-Seventeenth Shoes’ in R. Falkenberg, A. Rasche and C. Waidenschlager On Men: Masculine Dress Code from the Ancient Greeks to Cowboys, Deutsches Historisches Museum and ICOM, Berlin, 51-56

 

Swann, J. M. (2007) ‘Shoes 1790-1900’, Dress and Textile Specialists Journal Spring, 11-12

 

Tobert, N. (ed) (1993) Feet of Ingenuity, catalogue of footwear from the ethnographic collections at the Horniman Museum, London

 

Thomson, R. (1981) ‘Leather Manufacture in the Post-Medieval Period’, Post Medieval Archaeology 15, 161-175

 

Veldmeijer, A. J. (forthcoming 2008) Leatherwork from Qasr Ibrim, vol. 1: Ottoman, Leiden, NINO (Netherlands Institute for the Far East)

 

Volken, S. and M. (1996) 'Die Schuhe der St Martinskirche in Vevey', Zeitschrift für Schweizerische Archäologie und Kunstgeschichte, Band 53 Heft 1, Schweizerisches Landesmuseum, Zurich, 1-16

 

Volken, S. and M. (1997) 'Die Schuhe der Burgruine Wartau, untersuchung der Funde von 1932', Werdenberger Jahrbuch 1998, historisch-Heimatkundliche Vereinigung des Bezirks Werdenberg 11, 117-121 

 

Volken, S. and M. (1998) 'IV G les cuirs', Pro Fribourg, Fribourg, 59-63

 

Volken, S. and M. (2001), ‘Spuren kranker Füsse, eine Analyse der archäologischen Schuhfunde’, Alpirsbach, zur Geschichte von Kloster und Stadt, ed. Landesdenkmalamt Baden-Württemberg, 819-829

 

Volken, S. and M. (2003) ‘Schuhe und andere Lederfunde’ in J. Grünenfelder et al. Die Burg Zug: Archäologie, Baugeschichte, Restaurierung, Schweizer Beiträge zur Kulturgeschichte und Archäologie des Mittelalters, Bd. 28, 333-339

Volken, S. and M. (2004) ‘Schuhe die sich nicht paaren’, in M. Grabowski, D. Mührenberg, I Schalies, P. Steepuhn (eds) Curiosa Archaeologica, Ungewöhnliche Einblicke in die Archäologie, Lübeck: Archäologische Gesellschaft der Hansestadt Lübeck, Jahresschrift 5 2002/2003

 

Volken, S. and M. (2005C) ‘Aux pieds de nos Aïeux, Les chaussures de Fribourg/Porte de Romont’, A-Z Balade archéologique en terre Fribourgoise, catalogue d’exposition, Fribourg, 78-80

 

Volken, S. and M. (2005D) ‘Walking on deformed feet - Podological Analysis on Shoes Concealed in Buildings’, in I. Ericsson and R. Atzbach (eds) Depotfunde aus Gebäuden in Zentraleuropa [Concealed Finds from Buildings in Central Europe], Bamberger Kolloquien zur Archäologie des Mittelalters und der Neuzeit 1, Berlin, 120-125

 

Volken, S. and M. with Huguenin, C. (2006) ‘L’énigme Roger de Vico Pisano’, Destins de Pierre, le patrimoine funéraire de la cathédrale de Lausanne, Cahiers d’archéologie Romande No 104, Lausanne, 67-76 and 245

 

Whitehead, R. (2003) Buckles 1250-1800 Second edition by Greenlight Publishing, Witham, Essex